Donsol, Philippines. May 2011

Our view from the anchorage across to Mt Mayon

About two hours out from Boracay we make a snap decision to travel 100 miles east to Donsol to see the whale sharks. We know it is late in the season but a quick phone call tells us that there are a few still in the area. The whale shark (or known locally as butanding) is the world’s largest fish and many feed from November to May along the coast of Donsol. They are known to grow to lengths of 18 metres, 40 tons in weight and live for 100 years. Their mouths are about 2 metres across.

Again the World Wildlife Foundation are working closely with the local government to research and monitor the whale sharks, to help educate tourists and locals alike and to help develop ecotourism. Our overall comment from what we saw would be that they are doing a great job all round.

We went out on a tourist Bangka (Boat) two mornings running and were successful in snorkeling with the whale sharks both days. The local boys aboard working relentlessly, looking for a fin in the distance or a brown shadow in the water closer in. The first sighting was a massive whale shark swimming just below the surface coming across the boat right below us. Excitedly we threw on and snorkeling gear and waited…….alas he’d gone down deep and we never saw him again. Later though as we were returning to land one was sighted and we were able to swim with it. On day two we hopped in a few times and everyone was happy.

Our whale shark spotters...........................................Pick the new boy on the team

Looking towards the whale sharks head.................Mid section

Head and dorsol fin...................................................Tail as he passes

I didn’t enjoy the frenzy of gearing up, leaping to the guides instruction, all of us seemingly landing in a pile on top of each other, extracting oneself, swimming free of the moving bangka and then snorkelling furiously towards the departing shadow. The guide was great and with only 5 to a boat he made sure everyone got a look in. I was lucky to have whale shark swim right underneath me so I saw it pass from head to tail. Certainly worth the effort. Both days we shared the bangka with a Japanese couple, Came and Riza and if I thought I was out of my comfort zone, I applaud Riza for her efforts, as she was far less water confident than I was and she came away smiling.

Riza and Kame, our boat buddies for two mornings

The water visibility wasn’t great for photos as they were still murky as a result of the typhoon passing through there. We will probably plan to be in this area next year in April so we can spend time in the peak season when it’s said to have so many whale sharks it’s hard to find a space to swim between them??? We’d like to see if that is in fact true.

Until 1998 the town was a sleepy little fishing village. We were delighted to see many of those characteristics were evident still. On the first evening in town there was a special basketball game on, so it seemed the whole town was out in force. We wandered the street stalls sampling bbqed pork sates and other delicacies. We turned down the gambling booth and then stumbled upon the end of a beauty pageant. You just never know what the evening is going to bring.

Donsol as we arrive in the dinghy.........................Village in the channel

Outside the local store.............................................Gambling in the market

Children - my favourite subjects............................how cute is that....

Winner of pagent with her family..........................two other contestants

We did a little self tour up the river at night and were rewarded with trees lit up with the lights of hundreds of male fireflies attempting to attract a mate. When the advertising said ‘lit up like Christmas trees’, they weren’t kidding. Getting back to the boat in the pitch dark, at low tide, down narrow channels and over sand bars wasn’t so much fun but our competent skipper had it all under control. That night we fell asleep to the gentle thump of karaoke somewhere nearby onshore.