San Blas - May/June 2006

We left Bonaire without our part. It seemed to be lost in the mail!! Most frustrating. The weather was good for sailing through to Panama, so we forfeited seeing and provisioning in Curacao and set off. This passage has a reputation for having challenging sea conditions at times, so we were keen to optimise the weather window. We had a smooth passage down to Panama. In fact we had to motor the last few hundred miles because of lack of wind, which was most unexpected.

The past week we have spent in the most amazing group of islands called San Blas, off the Panama mainland. The people are Kuna Indians and, it seems,are living today as they have done for 100's of years - grass huts, dirt floor, no power, dug out canoes, fishing and very few possessions.

They are warm friendly people. Women often have a ring through their nose and their legs are heavily beaded. They are known for their appliqué stitch work called 'molas', which they paddle out with, in their dug outs and try to sell to you.

Daryl has found his island paradise - white sands and coconut palms. We drifted from island to island anchoring off, swimming, snorkeling and interacting with the locals. The photo opportunities were abundant.

Crayfish and fish we bought from them in abundance. In fact, with supplies a little low, I think we have had crayfish nearly every night.

One night we did go out to a hotel for dinner, fairly basic by NZ standards but a unique experience and the atmosphere was great. When we pulled out one of the chairs a big crab came scuttling out!! The fish meal cost US$2.50. Beer less than US$1 a can.

We do feel privileged to have had this experience, because with the speed of change, it will no doubt be difficult for them to maintain their uniqueness.

We are now motoring (no wind!!) to Cristobel, Colon which is the entrance to the Panama Canal.

Bonaire - May 2006

We had a wonderfully smooth sail from Grenada to Bonaire. The 300 mile sail took us 2days 6 hrs. The wind was directly behind us, we were going with the waves and part of it we sailed with the spinnaker only. We had dolphins chase us for part of the way.



Currently we are in Bonaire which is absolutely gorgeous. The whole island is a marine park and is often described as one of the best dive spots in the world. It is literally like being able to swim in an aquarium from the back of your boat. The water is so clear. Daryl is tempted to hire gear and do a full dive.



We hired a car and spent a day exploring the interior of the island. It was how I imagined Mexico to be - huge cacti everywhere, iguana scampering off the road as we passed by and wild donkeys looking on.





The locals are extremely conservation conscious, which is refreshing.
We saw many pink flamingos.
We also spent time on the salt flats visiting the slave huts. There used to be 4 slaves to each hut . A very sad part of history.



As is the way in the Caribbean, we have been waiting a week now for a warranty part for the inverter and it’s not expected for a few days yet. Because the inverter is only a few months old and this is the only agent for miles, we have little choice but to wait. I can’t think of a better place to have to do the waiting, but we are also keen to get to Panama before too long.
Roger, who we had met several weeks earlier , joined us as crew to make the 4th person an is going to stay on board until we get to Tahiti.
We have met up with another boat, Archangel, that is also going through the Panama and on into the South Pacific. They travel at a similar speed to us, so there is a strong possibility we will travel in convoy. Archangel was previously owned by Peter Blake, this couple having recently bought it in Spain from Peter’s widow, Pippa.



Daryl has gained the title as ‘the first person to fall overboard’ when getting into the dinghy. He did it ever so gracefully with only me present. I live in fear that my turn will come when we are on a dock in the middle of town!!!!
(Amendment to paragraph 6. Laurel pushed me !!! )
Our plan is to leave here at the end of the week, and then do a 4 day sail through to San Blas, which is a beautiful group of isolated islands within half a day of Panama.

Grenada - May 2006

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Our provisions we got in the US are beginning to dwindle so we need to do more shopping, especially for meat. This, at times, has proved interesting. A frozen bag of chicken may be labeled ‘chicken parts’. This is likely to include the feet – amongst other things!!! Daryl was excited when he found a bag of sausages (as we know them) – we hadn’t had one since leaving NZ.

We were invited to a dinner of roast duck, by friends on another boat. The duck had come in a tin!! French, apparently. Also, in the French islands, we have seen rabbit for sale – skinned but still whole, complete with eyes. Not our choice for an evening meal!!

We are now seeing islands that have tropical interiors – more flowers and wildlife.

In Grenada, where we are at the moment, we hired a car and had a fabulous day exploring with fellow yachting friends, Roger and Lucyna.

They have been to Grenada before, so they navigated while Daryl drove. The road was steep, narrow and winding – and unsignposted. The scenery was amazing. The roads went so high we could see both sides of the island at once. We walked to lookouts in the National Park and saw monkeys in the wild.

We visited the oldest working rum factory in the Caribbean – all organic, 71% proof, so it’s got to be good for you!!! We also had a tour of an organic chocolate factory that has won international awards. We bought you all some – ask us when we get home whether we still have it!!!!

We also fitted in going to a big drumming festival. The locals are of African descent and drumming is still a large part of their culture. Groups from other islands eg. Trinidad and Tobago had come for the event. It was varied and well worthwhile.

Yesterday I went to a Catholic Church service. Lucyna was going and invited me along. It was great to see the local people all dressed up in their Sunday best- hats and all. It is like stepping back in time. And the singing was loud and strong. I don’t think I will ever tire of watching the children, I think they are so gorgeous.

Grenadines - April 2006

We are anchored in a gorgeous Admiralty bay in Bequia in the Grenadines, but the wind is very gusty so we are staying on the boat in case the anchor moves (or someone else drags our way). While there we had a new zip put in our sail stack. The sail maker said it would take most of the day as a lot of his electrical tool were not working. This was because the electrician only comes to the island about every 3 months and had not come last time. So being the electrician that I am I spent the day repairing the tools and some of the outlets in the building. It was a fair exchange. In his gratitude he offered us whale meat as a gift. We thanked him but refused.



Before we left there we were lucky enough to witness a very rare sight. A huge leatherback turtle came up onto the beach during the day, laid her eggs and then returned to the sea. And we were there!!! They usually lay them at night.



We had a few nights, then, in the most idyllic bay we have ever seen. Salt Whistle Bay. Clear water, palm trees, white sands – the whole bit. We indulged in pure relaxation.



Further down in Carriacou we got a taxi and explored the island, including a bay where they are still making tradition boats by hand, using native timbers. The sailing versions, in particular, were very cute.

St Vincent - April 2006

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Sailing to St Vincent in the Grenadines we encountered a pod of pilot whales which swam to the boat and stayed around for 10 minutes or so. Wonderful. We also saw a humpback whale and calf, plus the dolphins who swam over to swim at the nose of the boat. They certainly add variety to a 12 hr sail.

We anchored for a few days in the bay where the film ‘Pirates of the Caribbean’ was shot in Willilabou Bay. (On my must do list). They have made the set into a tourist attraction.

The customs building was in part of the set. After watching the film and then being the set, you can see how much editing had to go on to give the illusion that it was old. I stood waiting for Captain Jack Sparrow to come swinging down from somewhere and asking for a beer??

We ordered veges from a local boat boy who rowed out to us, found out what we wanted, rowed back, picked the produce, then brought it back out to us. You couldn’t get fresher than that!! They have these really small pineapples which are lovely. It was here we met fellow cruses Roger and his partner Lucyna on a yacht Dreamcatcher of Jersey. They have been cruising the Caribbean for 6-7 seasons.

The temperatures and humidity are gradually increasing, but the evenings and nights are still fairly pleasant.