This is about Daryl & Laurel Fisher and their cruising adventures on the catamaran "Cool Bananas"...


Monday, 28 July 2008

Fiji - Vitu Levu, Vanua Levu - July 2008

Cool Bananas reporting in again,

To all those NZ we realize you are having a rotten winter and we feel guilty about our pleasant environment, so read on only if you think you can cope with hearing about it.

Last time I wrote we were in Savusavu. We were pleased we had waited until a good weather window because we had a lovely overnight sail down towards the mainland, stopping at Makogai Island. At the beginning of last century Makogai was set up as a leper colony housing and caring for 5000 people with leprosy. It was funded by the French government but the people were from all over the world. It looked well set up, having everything from a movie theatre to a jail. It officially closed in the 1960's after two Englishmen found a cure for leprosy. However anyone wanting to stay on could and the last of those people died on the island a few years ago.



The local government is now funding a research centre on the island using some of the old buildings and the centre is rearing giant clams – the biggest of which was 4ft long. Underwater in the bay are trays with hundreds of small clams of various ages. Later on they will be transferred to reserves in Fiji and also sold to other countries. We saw that some of the trays of clams underwater were being held up by the old iron beds, presumably from the old hospital. It seemed a worthwhile project.



The weather settled, the sun stayed shining and the waters were clear. AND Sascha found a beach with more shells than I have ever seen. At least an hour a day at low tide was scheduled for Sascha and me to scour amongst the coral mounds to uncover their treasures. Plus snorkelling and diving every day.

While we were there a mega yacht came into the bay which prompted us to think 'How much is too much?' This yacht was BIG and with it was its support boat which was almost as big. Sascha's cousin from Suva was a stewardess on the support boat so we got all the inside info. The purpose of the support boat was to accommodate the 8 crew and carry the toys!!! Helicopter on top, jet-skis joined like ducks in a row, a tender with 2x 350hp engines, an amphibian boat, a 20ft classic wooden racing boat, dinghies, water-skis and the list goes on. While there the helicopter flew in 30 miles to buy some fresh milk!!!! From my observations, they buzzed around burning up fuel, went to the reef diving and then they left.

The weather was right so we sailed on to Naigani Island (more clear water and unspoilt reefs) for a few days before sailing on into Ovalau, the old capital of Fiji. I was confined to bed with an ear infection, the anchorage was a bit exposed and rolly, so we probably didn't give Ovalau the time it deserved. Daryl thought the old colonial building looked rundown and there seemed little pride in the place.


With the wind still in our favour we sail on into Suva. We had mixed thoughts about visiting Suva, as it's had a lot of negative publicity over the last few years. We were there a week and came away feeling positive about the experience. Sascha had time to catch up with relatives. Sascha and I also found time for shopping (which we justified as good exercise pacing up and down the hot streets). One of the mornings Daryl and I spent at the museum. While there I asked a staff member where the church was featured on a postcard. She gave me a big smile and told me it was in her village and you could only get there by boat (up the river). So would we like her to organize to take us? You couldn't ask for more hospitality than that!!!

Suva like many cities has problems with safety at night so we chose to eat on the boat each night and socialize with the other cruisers in the bay. Two boats that had been to Suva many times over the past 20 years both said they thought the services and facilities for the yachties had deteriorated since their last visit and that there were very few yachts around compared with previous visits. A shame.

It was interesting to ask different people we met what they thought of the political situation. I've ask everyone from taxi drivers to hotel managers. Their views vary but no one can see an easy solution.



From Suva we have had yet another nice sail on to Beqa Lagoon, world known for its diving. Sascha's aunt's husband was born on Beqa and we were expected. It was lovely to have a welcoming party on the beach within minutes of us arriving. A dinghy to the beach quickly established that we were invited to drink kava that evening, with church and lunch the next day. During kava Daryl saw a huge pig's head on the bench and rightly guessed that was the basis of Sunday lunch. If we stay in Fiji much longer we need to get Daryl a sulu (the skirts males wear), as they keep lending him one to wear to church. Sorry I didn't get a photo but he must have been pretty comfortable because he almost forgot to give it back at the end of the day.

To reciprocate the hospitality the family came out to the boat -11 children and 5 adults. A great day had by all.


We have now anchored ourselves outside a well known resort. We have been made to feel very welcome, so we've been wining and dining in sumptuous surroundings. Daryl and Sascha did a commercial shark dive yesterday, where the sharks are fed. They were impressed by the large white tips, black tips and several large nurse and bull sharks, but disappointed the big tiger sharks didn't put in an appearance.



It is raining today so Daryl has been out and rigged up the buckets and tubes to channel the rainwater into our tanks. There are advantages with all weather!!!!

We are making our way around to Nadi and look forward to Amanda and Matt arriving on the 16th and then Daryl's sister Jenny and Kelly coming at the end of the month.

In wishing you all warm wishes I sincerely hope some of the warmth will reach those back in NZ.

Wednesday, 9 July 2008

Fiji - Vitu Levu - June 2008

Hi There

We finally got some better weather to get ourselves out of the Savusavu harbour and up the coast.

First stop is outside the Jean Cousteau Resort. You know, the resort owned by an American that has never been owned by a Cousteau. We're up early to see where the dive boat is taking the divers who have paid mega bucks to dive in the 'special Cousteau dive spots'. We follow out at a discrete distance. Great dive!!!!



On the way up the coast Sascha spots a pod of……are they dolphins or are they whales???? Out come the books and……they are 'Pigmy Killer Whales'. While I'm on the bow taking photos I get a shout to say Daryl and Sascha and getting in with them. They were pretty timid which the book said is typical of their nature. They seemed curious but didn't like anyone getting too close.

We get up to Rainbow Reef, a well known dive site, get the guide all organized and….the weather packs up. We got a snorkel and a dive in (close to shore) before we needed to duck around the corner into a sheltered bay/creek. And here we have been for most of the week.

We have been in the good company of another cruising yacht, SaVahn, with Fiona and Clare aboard (from England).

One day we decided to catch the local ferry to Taveuni, an island about five miles away. Great service- the ferry pulls up along side our yacht and we climb across. We had a great day, stopping to pick up locals in the next bay and on across the strait. A taxi ute took us into Somosomo town and we asked the driver to recommend the best place for a curry lunch. A quick stop to stock up on veges and it was time to get back to the ferry. The upshot of Sascha's chat with Isimeli, a local who works on the ferry, was an invitation to visit Loa village. Not just an everyday visit – a visit the day the Fijian Prime Minister is coming for morning tea!!!!! What a privilege. Isimeli wants our day in his village to be the best day we have in Fiji. And it was.



We went in at 7.30am to see the 'lovo' being opened and they gave us a sample taste of the taro. Isimeli tells us that the kava that we took to the village chief as sevusevu (traditional gift giving) the day before has been powdered and is going to be used in the kava ceremony with the Prime Minister. Imagine that, the Prime Minister is to drink our kava – we do feel special. The day gave us a wonderful insight into the traditional lifestyle of a relatively isolated village. The 'meke' dancing done by the young adults was fantastic.



As a thank you from both yachts Clare made a video of the days events on DVD for them and we put 400 odd photos on a disc. Their school has a computer and printer so hopefully they can print some copies from there. A truly memorable experience.

We did a day trip to a neighbouring island, Kioa, inhabited by Polynesians originally from Tuvalu, north of Fiji. Their island got overcrowded and had poor soil, so in 1947 they purchased Kioa from the Fijians. They are known for there weaving. Cool Bananas now has some flash new tablemat, Sascha a new bag and SaVahn a gorgeous new mat.

As for the rest of the time –
Fiona and Clare are scrabble players, so I can pretend my brain has had a bit of a workout!!!!
Sascha is refining the art of scone making.



The ferry boys didn't complain about my fruit and nut loaf.
And the maintenance list has never been so short.

We have now explored the bay both by water and by foot, the weather has finally abated, we've set the alarm clocks for a dawn start and we're on the move once more.


Warm Wishes
Laurel, Daryl and Sascha.

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