To all those NZ we realize you are having a rotten winter and we feel guilty about our pleasant environment, so read on only if you think you can cope with hearing about it.
Last time I wrote we were in Savusavu. We were pleased we had waited until a good weather window because we had a lovely overnight sail down towards the mainland, stopping at Makogai Island. At the beginning of last century Makogai was set up as a leper colony housing and caring for 5000 people with leprosy. It was funded by the French government but the people were from all over the world. It looked well set up, having everything from a movie theatre to a jail. It officially closed in the 1960's after two Englishmen found a cure for leprosy. However anyone wanting to stay on could and the last of those people died on the island a few years ago.
The local government is now funding a research centre on the island using some of the old buildings and the centre is rearing giant clams – the biggest of which was 4ft long. Underwater in the bay are trays with hundreds of small clams of various ages. Later on they will be transferred to reserves in Fiji and also sold to other countries. We saw that some of the trays of clams underwater were being held up by the old iron beds, presumably from the old hospital. It seemed a worthwhile project.
The weather settled, the sun stayed shining and the waters were clear. AND Sascha found a beach with more shells than I have ever seen. At least an hour a day at low tide was scheduled for Sascha and me to scour amongst the coral mounds to uncover their treasures. Plus snorkelling and diving every day.
While we were there a mega yacht came into the bay which prompted us to think 'How much is too much?' This yacht was BIG and with it was its support boat which was almost as big. Sascha's cousin from Suva was a stewardess on the support boat so we got all the inside info. The purpose of the support boat was to accommodate the 8 crew and carry the toys!!! Helicopter on top, jet-skis joined like ducks in a row, a tender with 2x 350hp engines, an amphibian boat, a 20ft classic wooden racing boat, dinghies, water-skis and the list goes on. While there the helicopter flew in 30 miles to buy some fresh milk!!!! From my observations, they buzzed around burning up fuel, went to the reef diving and then they left.
The weather was right so we sailed on to Naigani Island (more clear water and unspoilt reefs) for a few days before sailing on into Ovalau, the old capital of Fiji. I was confined to bed with an ear infection, the anchorage was a bit exposed and rolly, so we probably didn't give Ovalau the time it deserved. Daryl thought the old colonial building looked rundown and there seemed little pride in the place.
With the wind still in our favour we sail on into Suva. We had mixed thoughts about visiting Suva, as it's had a lot of negative publicity over the last few years. We were there a week and came away feeling positive about the experience. Sascha had time to catch up with relatives. Sascha and I also found time for shopping (which we justified as good exercise pacing up and down the hot streets). One of the mornings Daryl and I spent at the museum. While there I asked a staff member where the church was featured on a postcard. She gave me a big smile and told me it was in her village and you could only get there by boat (up the river). So would we like her to organize to take us? You couldn't ask for more hospitality than that!!!
Suva like many cities has problems with safety at night so we chose to eat on the boat each night and socialize with the other cruisers in the bay. Two boats that had been to Suva many times over the past 20 years both said they thought the services and facilities for the yachties had deteriorated since their last visit and that there were very few yachts around compared with previous visits. A shame.
It was interesting to ask different people we met what they thought of the political situation. I've ask everyone from taxi drivers to hotel managers. Their views vary but no one can see an easy solution.
From Suva we have had yet another nice sail on to Beqa Lagoon, world known for its diving. Sascha's aunt's husband was born on Beqa and we were expected. It was lovely to have a welcoming party on the beach within minutes of us arriving. A dinghy to the beach quickly established that we were invited to drink kava that evening, with church and lunch the next day. During kava Daryl saw a huge pig's head on the bench and rightly guessed that was the basis of Sunday lunch. If we stay in Fiji much longer we need to get Daryl a sulu (the skirts males wear), as they keep lending him one to wear to church. Sorry I didn't get a photo but he must have been pretty comfortable because he almost forgot to give it back at the end of the day.
To reciprocate the hospitality the family came out to the boat -11 children and 5 adults. A great day had by all.
We have now anchored ourselves outside a well known resort. We have been made to feel very welcome, so we've been wining and dining in sumptuous surroundings. Daryl and Sascha did a commercial shark dive yesterday, where the sharks are fed. They were impressed by the large white tips, black tips and several large nurse and bull sharks, but disappointed the big tiger sharks didn't put in an appearance.
It is raining today so Daryl has been out and rigged up the buckets and tubes to channel the rainwater into our tanks. There are advantages with all weather!!!!
We are making our way around to Nadi and look forward to Amanda and Matt arriving on the 16th and then Daryl's sister Jenny and Kelly coming at the end of the month.
In wishing you all warm wishes I sincerely hope some of the warmth will reach those back in NZ.
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