Vanuatu -Tanna, Port Vila - September 2008

We had a good sail across from Fiji, not a lot of wind and what there was, was from a direction which is hard to do anything with. We've been seriously low on fuel due to the excessive motoring but the conditions, for Vanuatu, were great. We were treated to a visit from a curious sperm whale which approached right up to the boat before doing a magnificent dive, flicking up his tail and disappearing under the boat.

In Tanna a small group of us were lucky enough to get invited to a circumcision ceremony in a local village. The circumcision had been done several months ago (two boys aged around 10 yrs) and the ceremony was to welcome the boys back into the community. Locals with good English explained to us what was happening. Some mum's apologized for some of the younger children being frightened of us but they explained that the children hadn't seen white people before, let alone a camera. We were made to feel very welcome and Sascha and I had our faces painted along with all the village females. A great cultural experience, although Daryl thought my 500 photos was a little excessive!!!!

That evening we went up to see the volcano and, although it was fairly active, we feel the truck drive up was more dangerous than the volcano itself!!!!

We left Tanna after dark and were treated to a fantastic view of the erupting volcano as we sailed past. Winds were light (and so was the fuel) but with a full moon it was a beautiful, albeit slow, over night sail to the next island, Erromango. We sailed into the bay amidst a large pod of spinner dolphins.

By 8am we had our day planned including guided trips to burial caves and an ancestral cave with rock drawings.

If you don't think you're into viewing us with human bones, then skip the next two photos. As previous generations in Vanuatu were cannibals, some even up to 1969, they are somewhat more casual than us about the sighting and handling of human bones. In early times they also used the bone to make tools. We found the history fascinating.

The customs and traditions on each island in Vanuatu are quite different and it takes a while to get your head around it all. Adding to this is the change that is occurring due to westernization (for want of a better word). Two boys approached us in Tanna in their dug out canoe and asked whether we could charge their cellphones!!!! Things are changing and makes for some interesting discussing on what is actually the best for these people.

We spent time with the dolphins, did a bit of snorkelling, had time in the village, celebrated Erika's birthday from 'Oz Magic', traded fish hooks for bananas and then it was time to move on.

Fiji - Vanua Levu, Yasawas - August 2008

Cool Bananas reporting in with an update once more.

When last we wrote we were making our way around the main island of Fiji, Viti Levu (with a few island deviations).

We spent a night at a small gorgeous island called Vanualele, which incidentally, for those that are interested, had red footed boobies. They must be relatives of the blue footed boobies we saw in Galapagos. It's always exciting to see something you weren't expecting. Not so easy to get a good photograph though, when you're in a dinghy in lumpy seas.

We also spent a few days in a bay outside a great backpacker typed resort called Robinson Crusoe's. While there Daryl and Sascha went for a dive just outside the entrance by the reef. As they were finishing the dive Sascha tugged on the hose to get Daryl's attention as five humped back whales swam around them. Daryl felt they may have been drawn by the noise of the dive hooker's motor and were curious. The 50ft whales swam around them, then under them and away. Daryl struggled to get photos as they were so big and so close. They both came back buzzing. I'd say it was one of those once in a lifetime experiences for both of them and one they will dine on for some time to come!!!!

Sascha then left us for three weeks to catch up with family and 'find her roots. She had the opportunity to go and see the village where her mother was born and spend time with friends of her late grandmother. She has great photos to take back to share with her Mum – aren't digital cameras wonderful!!!!!

Meanwhile, we were also getting a family 'fix'.

Amanda and Matt flew in for 10 wonderful days aboard. The wind and seas were kind to us and the sun shone. Amanda coped amazingly well considering how motion sensitive she is. She even gets seasick snorkelling!!!! We had lots of R&R – time to catch up on news from home, bridal magazines, wedding planning, games, village visits and water activities. It's funny but it felt like a holiday for us too.

Their highlight was swimming with the manta rays. We spent hours - drifting in the pass with them swimming by…..dinghying back to the entrance…..drifting down……dinghying back. We hadn't realized that the time the manta rays spend feeding there is seasonal and we were there within the last few days before they left, not to return for 7 months.

We spent time in Nalauwaki village and caught up with a family we had met last year. We met and photographed their new addition to the family- a 3 month old baby girl. Amanda gave the older daughter a pile of her old clothes we'd brought over.

We then had Kelly and Daryl's sister Jenny for a week. We cruised in the same area but unfortunately they missed out on the manta rays. Lots more R&R and chatter.

It was lovely to have our 'social' Kelly all to ourselves for a whole week. We caught up on all her career changes and decisions – staying single and travelling amongst them – Go Kelly!!!

This year we feel 'we got to know' Fiji a lot better. We bought newspapers, spoke to locals and expats and gather views on the political and economic situation…..wait for it….yes…. Daryl got quite keen on doing a little investment project…. maybe. He got offered a real estate job but the lure for travelling on coupled with the uncertainty in Fiji won over.

We've now got Sascha back on board, we all agree we've been doing too much eating and relaxing so…… we're checking out and moving on to Vanuatu (and on a diet). Vanuatu is a revisit for us but last year we feel we only just touched the surface and hope that we'll get better weather conditions and can explore further.

Fiji - Vitu Levu, Vanua Levu - July 2008

Cool Bananas reporting in again,

To all those NZ we realize you are having a rotten winter and we feel guilty about our pleasant environment, so read on only if you think you can cope with hearing about it.

Last time I wrote we were in Savusavu. We were pleased we had waited until a good weather window because we had a lovely overnight sail down towards the mainland, stopping at Makogai Island. At the beginning of last century Makogai was set up as a leper colony housing and caring for 5000 people with leprosy. It was funded by the French government but the people were from all over the world. It looked well set up, having everything from a movie theatre to a jail. It officially closed in the 1960's after two Englishmen found a cure for leprosy. However anyone wanting to stay on could and the last of those people died on the island a few years ago.



The local government is now funding a research centre on the island using some of the old buildings and the centre is rearing giant clams – the biggest of which was 4ft long. Underwater in the bay are trays with hundreds of small clams of various ages. Later on they will be transferred to reserves in Fiji and also sold to other countries. We saw that some of the trays of clams underwater were being held up by the old iron beds, presumably from the old hospital. It seemed a worthwhile project.



The weather settled, the sun stayed shining and the waters were clear. AND Sascha found a beach with more shells than I have ever seen. At least an hour a day at low tide was scheduled for Sascha and me to scour amongst the coral mounds to uncover their treasures. Plus snorkelling and diving every day.

While we were there a mega yacht came into the bay which prompted us to think 'How much is too much?' This yacht was BIG and with it was its support boat which was almost as big. Sascha's cousin from Suva was a stewardess on the support boat so we got all the inside info. The purpose of the support boat was to accommodate the 8 crew and carry the toys!!! Helicopter on top, jet-skis joined like ducks in a row, a tender with 2x 350hp engines, an amphibian boat, a 20ft classic wooden racing boat, dinghies, water-skis and the list goes on. While there the helicopter flew in 30 miles to buy some fresh milk!!!! From my observations, they buzzed around burning up fuel, went to the reef diving and then they left.

The weather was right so we sailed on to Naigani Island (more clear water and unspoilt reefs) for a few days before sailing on into Ovalau, the old capital of Fiji. I was confined to bed with an ear infection, the anchorage was a bit exposed and rolly, so we probably didn't give Ovalau the time it deserved. Daryl thought the old colonial building looked rundown and there seemed little pride in the place.


With the wind still in our favour we sail on into Suva. We had mixed thoughts about visiting Suva, as it's had a lot of negative publicity over the last few years. We were there a week and came away feeling positive about the experience. Sascha had time to catch up with relatives. Sascha and I also found time for shopping (which we justified as good exercise pacing up and down the hot streets). One of the mornings Daryl and I spent at the museum. While there I asked a staff member where the church was featured on a postcard. She gave me a big smile and told me it was in her village and you could only get there by boat (up the river). So would we like her to organize to take us? You couldn't ask for more hospitality than that!!!

Suva like many cities has problems with safety at night so we chose to eat on the boat each night and socialize with the other cruisers in the bay. Two boats that had been to Suva many times over the past 20 years both said they thought the services and facilities for the yachties had deteriorated since their last visit and that there were very few yachts around compared with previous visits. A shame.

It was interesting to ask different people we met what they thought of the political situation. I've ask everyone from taxi drivers to hotel managers. Their views vary but no one can see an easy solution.



From Suva we have had yet another nice sail on to Beqa Lagoon, world known for its diving. Sascha's aunt's husband was born on Beqa and we were expected. It was lovely to have a welcoming party on the beach within minutes of us arriving. A dinghy to the beach quickly established that we were invited to drink kava that evening, with church and lunch the next day. During kava Daryl saw a huge pig's head on the bench and rightly guessed that was the basis of Sunday lunch. If we stay in Fiji much longer we need to get Daryl a sulu (the skirts males wear), as they keep lending him one to wear to church. Sorry I didn't get a photo but he must have been pretty comfortable because he almost forgot to give it back at the end of the day.

To reciprocate the hospitality the family came out to the boat -11 children and 5 adults. A great day had by all.


We have now anchored ourselves outside a well known resort. We have been made to feel very welcome, so we've been wining and dining in sumptuous surroundings. Daryl and Sascha did a commercial shark dive yesterday, where the sharks are fed. They were impressed by the large white tips, black tips and several large nurse and bull sharks, but disappointed the big tiger sharks didn't put in an appearance.



It is raining today so Daryl has been out and rigged up the buckets and tubes to channel the rainwater into our tanks. There are advantages with all weather!!!!

We are making our way around to Nadi and look forward to Amanda and Matt arriving on the 16th and then Daryl's sister Jenny and Kelly coming at the end of the month.

In wishing you all warm wishes I sincerely hope some of the warmth will reach those back in NZ.

Fiji - Vitu Levu - June 2008

Hi There

We finally got some better weather to get ourselves out of the Savusavu harbour and up the coast.

First stop is outside the Jean Cousteau Resort. You know, the resort owned by an American that has never been owned by a Cousteau. We're up early to see where the dive boat is taking the divers who have paid mega bucks to dive in the 'special Cousteau dive spots'. We follow out at a discrete distance. Great dive!!!!



On the way up the coast Sascha spots a pod of……are they dolphins or are they whales???? Out come the books and……they are 'Pigmy Killer Whales'. While I'm on the bow taking photos I get a shout to say Daryl and Sascha and getting in with them. They were pretty timid which the book said is typical of their nature. They seemed curious but didn't like anyone getting too close.

We get up to Rainbow Reef, a well known dive site, get the guide all organized and….the weather packs up. We got a snorkel and a dive in (close to shore) before we needed to duck around the corner into a sheltered bay/creek. And here we have been for most of the week.

We have been in the good company of another cruising yacht, SaVahn, with Fiona and Clare aboard (from England).

One day we decided to catch the local ferry to Taveuni, an island about five miles away. Great service- the ferry pulls up along side our yacht and we climb across. We had a great day, stopping to pick up locals in the next bay and on across the strait. A taxi ute took us into Somosomo town and we asked the driver to recommend the best place for a curry lunch. A quick stop to stock up on veges and it was time to get back to the ferry. The upshot of Sascha's chat with Isimeli, a local who works on the ferry, was an invitation to visit Loa village. Not just an everyday visit – a visit the day the Fijian Prime Minister is coming for morning tea!!!!! What a privilege. Isimeli wants our day in his village to be the best day we have in Fiji. And it was.



We went in at 7.30am to see the 'lovo' being opened and they gave us a sample taste of the taro. Isimeli tells us that the kava that we took to the village chief as sevusevu (traditional gift giving) the day before has been powdered and is going to be used in the kava ceremony with the Prime Minister. Imagine that, the Prime Minister is to drink our kava – we do feel special. The day gave us a wonderful insight into the traditional lifestyle of a relatively isolated village. The 'meke' dancing done by the young adults was fantastic.



As a thank you from both yachts Clare made a video of the days events on DVD for them and we put 400 odd photos on a disc. Their school has a computer and printer so hopefully they can print some copies from there. A truly memorable experience.

We did a day trip to a neighbouring island, Kioa, inhabited by Polynesians originally from Tuvalu, north of Fiji. Their island got overcrowded and had poor soil, so in 1947 they purchased Kioa from the Fijians. They are known for there weaving. Cool Bananas now has some flash new tablemat, Sascha a new bag and SaVahn a gorgeous new mat.

As for the rest of the time –
Fiona and Clare are scrabble players, so I can pretend my brain has had a bit of a workout!!!!
Sascha is refining the art of scone making.



The ferry boys didn't complain about my fruit and nut loaf.
And the maintenance list has never been so short.

We have now explored the bay both by water and by foot, the weather has finally abated, we've set the alarm clocks for a dawn start and we're on the move once more.


Warm Wishes
Laurel, Daryl and Sascha.

.

Tonga/Fiji - June 2008

Bula from Fiji

Sincerely sorry to hear NZ is experiencing stormy, wintery conditions. May not pay to read on if you can't show any sympathy for the heat we are encountering at the moment!!

Continuing from last time……….

We continued to make our way north through the islands to Vava'u, which is the northern most group. We had stopped here before when we were making our maiden voyage from the US. It is a popular cruising ground for yachties and charter yachts. Unfortunately the weather was again not 'playing the game', so for the second time we were restricted in what and where we could go.

So many beautiful islands we just couldn't get to because of strong trade winds and rain…rain…rain. But being who we are we just made the best of it…..eating at the Yacht Club and restaurants, meeting new friends and catching up with old friends, the odd game of cards playing both new games and old and generally making good use of every dry patch of weather that came along.

One advantage of being in these warmer climates is that when you get wet walking in the rain it never takes long to dry out again!!! But on the boat things were all feeling damp, mold was appearing on the walls and in wardrobes and Sascha couldn't believe what could grow on her leather belt and bag!! On fine days the boat's cockpit and sides resembled a Chinese laundry.

Timmy left us in Vava'u having decided to return to NZ to put down some roots for a while and maybe try a career in a new direction – well, that was the plan when he left but possibly subject to change.

We picked a great weather window to Fiji and had a lovely sail up to Vanua Levu in the north of Fiji. On the way the fishing was great -5 strikes –threw back the huge tuna and barracuda and kept the mahimahi. We have spent most of the time, so far, moored in the harbour at Savusavu, the port of entry. It has a strong sailing community and we have had a great time. Cruiser's curry night on Thursday nights at a local restaurant give you a great three course meal for NZ$9 or a two course lunch any day for NZ$4. At the supermarket another cruiser got a piece of local frozen fish, enough for two, and it cost NZ$1.90. Amazing.

If we had to name a country as the friendliest people in the world -we'd give it to Fiji. In the islands or the towns the people seem just so happy to chat and help us. We have had invitations into homes just as a result of conversations while buying something in a shop. We've even had the local tailors make Daryl a shirt and a couple of cool dresses for me, really just for the fun of it.

But things do move slowly here. We ordered the fuel truck, who booked us for 10am Thursday. He arrived 4pm Friday. We went to check out on Friday only to find that customs had put last years date on our cruising permit (two weeks ago), so we can't leave until they fix it in Suva. The rules have changed for those cruisers wanting a a cruising permit for the more isolated Lau Island group. One yacht has spent 3 months and $5000 and still hasn't got through the red tape. Consequently we didn't even start the process.

There are so many other beautiful places to see here, we will focus on those. Fiji's political situation isn't affecting us personally, apart from some seemingly illogical laws concerning movement of yachts. An explanation given in the Fiji Times newspaper for one of the changes was that boats are responsible for the spread of drugs and prostitution!!!! It doesn't fit with the type of people we're meeting but I suppose you never know.

Daryl and Sascha were at the Yacht Club happy hour last night enjoying a quiet beer with fellow cruisers. They were out on the deck soaking up sunset over the harbour, when the deck immediately below them collapsed, dropping themselves, their friends and the table about a foot. All was well, but both had had momentary visions of an unplanned swim. Hopefully very soon we will be heading out of the harbour and we'll begin a month of island hopping our way down to Suva.

All the best

Laurel, Daryl and Sascha.