Bitung/Manado, Indonesia - August 2009

We have arrived in Bitung, the host of the largest marine event ever to be staged in Indonesia. They want to put this area on the map in marine tourism. A budget of $800,000US has been allocated to hosting the sailing yachts alone. And did they ever go all out, in their typical friendly but (frustratingly) chaotically disorganized manner. We’ve been showered in gifts – hats, tee shirts, key rings, soft toys, local bitung beer, DVD about the marine area, medals, cash, fuel, certificates and a beautiful hardcovered book of photographs of the area. There have been free tours and dinners. They really have tried so hard to give us a good time.



Local horse and cart transport in Manado................Independence day parade in Bitung

In general when we are out on the street we are the only white faces to be seen and the locals treat us as if we are royalty. The locals seem to feel it is a privilege to be photographed with us, especially photos with those young ones amongst us. We found a great local eating place called Pasar Tua, a street of restaurants most with big barbeques outside. Beside the bbq is a table full of wet fish. So you choose your fish, squid or prawns by pointing to the one you want (literally), it’s weighed and then cooked for you. Deliciously fresh. Quite a few amongst the fleet have had stomach upsets but thankfully not Daryl, Dave or I. Lydia, however, has had a couple of bouts. When a guide was taking us to the local fruit and veg market he warned us we may see rat, bat and dog for sale – all in the experience!!! In fact there is a good European styled supermarket so we don’t need to be using the local market meat supply. Even saw some NZ sirloin in the freezer!!

Daryl and Dave entered to be a part of the Guinness Book of Record for having the most divers in the water at one time. It was broken with about 2600 divers.



Divers limbering up



Daryl underwater along with 2600 others..........Daryl's keen supporters

We did a tour to the national park and saw our first monkeys in the wild – fantastic. Worth the 3hr tramp in sweltering conditions (I think). There, as well, were the tarsier monkeys, the smallest primate in the world. Sooooo cute!!!! We also took the opportunity to see the tarsier at close quarters at a zoo we could dinghy to from the anchorage. However some of the other sights at the zoo were a sad, with monkeys held in bare steel cages up off the ground without them even having access to water if they wanted it. The upside was that the place looked clean and the animals in healthy enough condition.


Laurel getting a shot of the tarsiers.....Cute or what

After a week of harbour life we were all relieved to head around the coast and anchor up in a bay with clear water and a sandy beach. Ahhhh, swimming, snorkeling, diving and sundowners on the beach. We had our first game of cards in weeks. The women especially agreed that it was also good to be able to peel off some of the modest clothing and feel cooler.

The climax event was a sail passed which was held in Manado, forty miles around the coast from Bitung. On all the advertising it had the Indonesian President attending, actually he was the main feature we were ‘sailing passed’. In reality he was never going to be able to be there as he was attending a major political meeting (with 300 delegates) in Jakarta - only in Indonesia!!! One thing we have learnt is -never believe what anybody says. And also – someone else is always to blame. Never mind, it’s frustrating but we knew it would be like this. Despite the lack of a President’s presence it was a grand event. In attendance was the US aircraft carrier George Washington plus frigates, destroyers, tall ships, yachts and various boats I don’t have a name for (it really should be a man writing this bit). Thousands of people were on the shore watching. The George Washington launched jets (including three stealth fighters) that did acrobatics over us - Quite spectacular.


Getting in behind the tall ship..............................Laurel on the helm


USA frigate with many white uniformed crew....getting organised in pouring rain




Plane formation fly over................... Cool Bananas leading the fleet



The naval fleet approaching ................US George Washington





Our naval officer, Fahima in Wori Bay................Fahima getting fleet instruction


For the event, Cool Bananas lead the fleet, as we had the navy advisor for the fleet aboard. Other notaries aboard included one of the local event organizers and his friend, who was Vice President of the five star Sadona Hotel in Manado. So after the event we were guided (along with two other friends’ boats) into the lagoon outside the hotel and that night dined on probably the best five course meal I’ve ever had (I suppose that’s not too hard as I haven’t had many 5 course meals). The hotel pool, etc, were at our disposal over the next few days so it was pure luxury. Daryl and Dave went with a dive company to do a wreck dive and two dives out at the world famous Bunaken Island dive sites. They came back buzzing (and found me supping cocktails by the pool). The hospitality has been amazing.



Anchored at Sadona Hotel............... Cardinal fish only found in Lembah Straits



Wreck dive in Manado

Nudibranches here there and everywhere

We are now back in Bitung awaiting a weather window to make our way south west to Wakatobi. With the trade winds being from the South east we are hoping for some calmer weather to do it in. The wind is howling through the anchorage this morning so we shall see……..